Irish Monkey Cellars
2006 Primitivo - Lovall Valley - NAPA
$30 / 750 ml.
Zinfandel was for many years a "mystery inside an enigma,
in the belly of a conundrum". It is one of California's most widely
planted grapes, yet the name is unknown anywhere else in the world. Adding
to the mystery, until recently there were no similar grapes being grown
anywhere in the Old Country! That changed about 20 years ago with the
discovery that the Primitivo di Gioia grape of Puglia in Italy
is essentially the same, then a few years ago the 9(!) remaining plants
of the near-wild Croatian variety Crljenak Kasteljanski which
was determined by UC Davis to be identical.
Yet, like so many things that are "for all purposes genetically
identical", there are differences in the clones themselves. In this
case the Primitivo is a clone with a great degree of character,
unusual among Zinfandels. We are lucky to have access to a tiny vineyard
in Napa's Lovall Valley (accessible only through Sonoma!), which produces
every year a wealth of tiny berries. The bramble, oak and sharp cherry/plum
tones are just amazing.
Because of the extraordinary intensity of Primitivo's fruit,
pairing it to food takes a confidence and a complimentary flavor profile.
It pairs naturally with savory roasted meat dishes, as well as bold and
hearty casseroles. It can showcase a goose or venison, as well as give
a plate of Blue cheeses a worthy sparring partner. Think of Primitivo
as a finely bred knight: strong yet genteel, glittery yet solid.
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